Update 12 -- Taiohae bay, Nuku Hiva...

Orca Update # 12. Taiohae Bay, Nuku Hiva, Marquesas Islands.

THIS is what we've been dreaming about for the last 25 days. The lanai is perched on a ridge under a palm tree, overlooking the blue tropical bay, we sip cold beer on rock-steady earth. Nothing is moving; its amazing. For the last 25 days, everything has been moving—to illustrate the fact, think of this: at sea, if you hang something by a small piece of line, like a necklace, the string will wear through in a few days. We had all manner of knick-knacks hanging from various places about the boat – St. Christopher's medals, colored glass, etc. They all wore through their tethers until there was nothing left hanging in the boat. You can imagine the wear and tear this puts on the rigging and sails, we had to be on constant watch for chafe.

Apparently we were very lucky to experience those 30 knots of wind just N of the equator. We did a 140 mile day right through where the doldrums were supposed to be, and blasted through the rest of the passage with the help of the south equatorial current, a solid 2+ knots of help, to rack up multiple 150 mile days. We've heard that our 25 days is one of the quickest passages from Cabo San Lucas this season; we've heard of one 50 day passage on a 30' boat similar to Orca.

The islands we've arrived at are different than anywhere else we've ever been. Maybe they are comparable to Hawaii in the early 1900's. Tropical, rugged, trade-wind caressed, people ride around barebacked on small horses. Few people speak English, and Marquesan, a language similar to Hawaiian, gets daily use in everything from business transactions to bar-talk. Most white people are greeted in french; needless to say Kara and I are hopelessly lost in even the simplest attempted conversation. The local culture is rich, stone carvings, museums, and archeological sites abound. Tattoo's are a big deal. The water is not potable here, but in the next cove over, at the base of the 3rd highest watefall in the world, we hear there is excellent drinking water. That's where we'll head next, “Daniel's Cove” – so named because a guy named Daniel lives there.

Were not sure when the next time we'll have the interent is; the town that we are in now is the largest in these islands, and is the capital. Even so, we've been having a hard time tracking down phone and interent. were leaving for the tuamotu island chain in a week or so, a 5 day passage to the southeast.

Thanks,

J&K