Ocra Updates 9 aka 10

Hi Everyone,


Originally, we thought it would be fun to write several Orca Updates throughout the passage to the South Pacific, and then send them out one at a time whenever we had internet access next. However, its proven pretty difficult to get a decent internet connection, so you'll get them all at once. sorry, connection too sloz for pictures!

Orca Update # 10, 15N x 120 W, 800 NM SW of Cabo San Lucas

The weather has been uneventful, the fishing mediocre. The worst weather we've encountered so far was about an hour out of CSL, and it wasn't particularly bad; 20 knots of W wind.

That's not to say the trip so far hasn't been challenging in it's own ways. We almost blew our collective lid several times doing the paperwork to exit Mexico. We anchored in CSL for a grand total of about 14 hours; 8 of those were filled with paperwork. Here's only one example of the run-around we went through: the Captania del Puerto wouldn't sign our papers to leave Mexico until we paid the “anchoring fee.” The office where they needed to be paid was a 60 peso taxi ride across town. We were required to sign into and out of this office; the security guard at the door took our passports for the duration of our visit (to keep us from escaping?). Orca's documentation was closely inspected. Once satisfied of the document's authenticity, the employees extracted her length and displacement, which were then used in what must have been a very complex formula. 4 confused employees plugged the numbers in, and, 20 tense minutes later, they abruptly arrived at a very precise fee (down to a hundredth of a peso, even thought the smallest currency denomination is a half peso). Then, all 4 employees again worked together to produce a full page, full color invoice from a very fancy, yet very stubborn printer. This invoice was then subsequently hand-delivered to a different booth, where we were directed to rendezvoused with yet another employee to pay the fee. We received both a color copy of the invoice and an additional receipt upon payment. Having completed our business, the security guard relinquished our passports after recording our first, middle, and last names, nationalities, and passport numbers. 45 minutes after arriving, we took another 60 peso taxi ride back to the Captania del Puerto's office where our anchoring invoice was inspected by another two employees before our papers were signed. The fee? 15.93 pesos, about $1 US dollar.

Sailing out to sea from Cabo was scary. Leaving the harbor after fueling up for the first time since California, we set the sails with a feeling of detachment that was definitely self-imposed. We were on autopilot, working by instinct. By avoiding thoughts of the distance, time, space, and desolation ahead, we could avoid unleashing the extreme apprehension that might cause us to turn back if not completely contained.

Now, over a week out, all that is gone; we're feeling comfortable, confident, and carefree. We have absolute trust in Orca after our months on the coast of Baja. We're completely self-sufficient; just this morning we fixed a 30 inch tear that developed last night in one of our sails using our on board sewing machine.

The weather has been harmless and the wind fair. We've been looking forward to working on some celestial navigation, but oddly enough we have sailed all the way down to 15 degrees N and have yet to really see the sun or stars; its been consistently overcast. Makes one appreciate the GPS. The weather is still relatively chilly as well, long pants and sweaters are standard dress for night watch. This seems odd, as we are only 900 miles from the equator and closing fast.

The remoteness of our location is mind boggling. We haven't seen another man-made object in 700 miles; not even an airplane overhead. What little wildlife that exists out here isn't even afraid of humans; perhaps they've never seen one before. Yesterday we had 3 open ocean birds (boobies or albatross, perhaps?) land on our boom just a couple feet from us in the cockpit. When they started pooping on our sail, we tried to chase them off with a stick. We bopped them on the head and they squawked at us with confused but unafraid looks—and didn't leave. We ended up shoving them off into the water one by one.

If it wasn't for charts and the GPS, it would be easy to forget that we are moving. The same stretch of water seems rise up from the same horizon, day after day, like we're on a treadmill. Orca is the center of the universe, stationary, and the ocean, clouds, wind, and waves move around her in a daily cycle of light and dark.

To fall overboard is certain death, and its impossible to forget that on a night like tonight. The full moon is hidden behind dark, rain-laden clouds. Its pitch black outside; no sea, no sky, no horizon, no landmarks or reference points save the cheerful glow of a kerosene lamp burning in Orca's cabin. A good night to sit below with a hot cup of tea and write an Orca Update.